Glassy Ocean, Avalon
I took this photo a few hours before Bobs paddle out at LA. Bob was a local legend in the local community who lived in his van at the top of L
It was a rainy day, the wind was onshore and it was pretty small, but I was feeling super average and needed some ocean medicine to sort me out.
I was out there by myself for a while before the wind swung offshore, the rain stopped, and the ocean turned to glass.
Anyone that knows LA, knows that on the inside of the take-off you get these amazing little tubes right on the ledge. As a grom I always used to look at them and think how cool they were and how awesome it would be to capture it.
I remember taking this shot and looking at it through the housing and thinking there was something unique and special about it.
By the arvo the surf was pumping, the sun was shining and hundreds of people from the community and beyond, all came together to celebrate Bob’s legends life.
The ocean does magical things.